9 Best Mounting Tools for Installing Electronics on Your Kayak Console

Staring at a blank plastic kayak console with a brand-new fish finder in hand can feel incredibly daunting. Drill a hole in the wrong spot, and you have a permanent leak; mount a display incorrectly, and a stray wave could send it to the bottom of the lake. Rigging a kayak console with the right mounting tools ensures your electronics stay secure, accessible, and completely dry through seasons of hard paddling.

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Key Factors for Planning Your Kayak Console Layout

Before drilling the first hole, sit in the kayak seat with a paddle in hand to simulate a full stroke. Ensure the planned screen placement does not interfere with paddle sweeps or block the entry and exit path. Consider how water drains off the deck, keeping electronics away from low spots where puddles naturally form.

Weight distribution and line-of-sight are equally critical when mapping out the console. A heavy battery placed too far forward or off-center will alter how the kayak tracks, while a screen mounted too low forces your eyes off the water. Grouping components together also reduces the length of wire runs, lowering the risk of snagging a hook or a boot during a busy day of fishing.

Ball Mount – RAM Mounts Marine Electronic Mount

Every marine electronics setup needs a rugged foundation to absorb shock and vibration while allowing infinite angle adjustments. Without a solid ball mount, vibrations from paddling or chop can loosen delicate internal connections in expensive fish finders. The RAM Mounts Marine Electronic Mount utilizes a patented rubber-coated ball and socket design that dampens shock during rough transits on the water. Constructed from marine-grade aluminum, it resists salt corrosion and holds heavy displays securely without slipping.

When purchasing, ensure you match the ball size to the weight of your specific fish finder model. Oversizing the mount is always safer than undersizing to prevent screen sag in heavy chop. This heavy-duty system is ideal for kayakers looking for a highly adjustable, durable platform for medium to large displays, but it is not suitable for those seeking a flush, low-profile mount that remains static.

• Ball Size: 1.5-inch (C-Size)
• Weight Capacity: Up to 4 pounds
• Material: Marine-grade powder-coated aluminum
• Best Use: Medium-sized fish finders and GPS plotters

Gear Track – YakAttack GTSL90 Surface Mount Track

A gear track provides a versatile, non-permanent mounting platform along the gunwales or console. Gear tracks allow you to slide accessories on and off without drilling new holes every time you decide to change your layout. The YakAttack GTSL90 Surface Mount Track is made from high-strength polymer that is both lightweight and UV-resistant. Its slim profile avoids snagging clothing or fishing lines, while the top-loading design makes changing accessories incredibly fast.

Because this track is constructed of polymer rather than aluminum, avoid using it for massive, heavy displays or high-torque trolling motor stabilizers. It is best to use backing plates inside the hull if you plan to mount moderately heavy gear. This product is perfect for anglers who love to customize their layout depending on the target species, but it is not designed for holding high-load anchor systems or heavy downriggers.

• Material: High-strength synthetic polymer
• Width: 0.9 inches
• Lengths available: 4, 8, 12, and 16 inches
• Best Use: Light-duty fish finders, camera mounts, and rod holders

Transducer Mount – Scotty Depthfinder Mount 141

A transducer mount suspends the delicate sonar sensor in the water column while keeping it protected from rocks and logs. It bridges the gap between the hull interior and the water below without permanent under-hull mounting. The Scotty Depthfinder Mount 141 combines a post mount with a swiveling arm, allowing you to lift the transducer out of the water instantly when approaching shallow water or launching. It integrates seamlessly into standard Scotty post-mount bases, which are widely compatible with most kayak setups.

Make sure the arm length matches the depth of your kayak’s gunwales to ensure the transducer sits fully submerged during operation. Routine cleaning is required to prevent salt build-up in the joints after saltwater outings. This mount is great for paddlers who frequently launch from rocky shores or drag their kayaks across sand, but it is not meant for high-speed motorized kayaks where water drag might force the arm out of alignment.

• Material: Fiber-reinforced engineering-grade nylon
• Compatibility: Fits Scotty post mounts
• Adjustment: 360-degree rotation
• Best Use: Universal transducer mounting and temporary sonar deployment

Deck Seal – Blue Sea Systems CableClam

A deck seal allows wires to pass through the kayak’s outer shell into the dry storage area without letting water seep in. Running raw wires through bare drilled holes is a guaranteed way to flood your hull. The Blue Sea Systems CableClam provides a waterproof barrier using a split rubber seal that clamps tightly around the wire. Its high-impact UV-stabilized acetal construction stands up to direct sunlight and beating waves without degrading.

You must select the model size that corresponds to the largest connector plug on your wire, not just the diameter of the wire itself, since the plug has to fit through the opening during installation. This tool is essential for any kayaker routing power cords or transducer cables from the cockpit into the internal hull. It is not necessary if you are using a fully self-contained portable fish finder system with no external wiring.

• Material: UV-stabilized acetal and black rubber
• Cable Diameter Range: Up to 0.70 inches (depending on model)
• Waterproof Rating: IPX7 equivalent when installed correctly
• Best Use: Routing power and transducer cables through decks

Fuse Block – Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block

A fuse block protects expensive marine electronics from voltage spikes and short circuits. Directly wiring multiple accessories to a battery without fuses is a major safety hazard that can ruin your gear or spark a fire. The Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block offers a consolidated location to wire up to six separate electronic accessories. It features a clear protective cover with a storage compartment for spare fuses and uses standard, easy-to-find ATO/ATC fuses.

This fuse block must be mounted inside a dry bag or a highly water-resistant compartment within the hull, as it is splashproof but not submersible. It is best for kayakers running multiple electronic accessories like lights, fish finders, and USB chargers. However, it is complete overkill for simple setups consisting of a single, low-draw depth finder.

• Circuits: 6-circuit configuration
• Max Amperage: 100A per block / 30A per circuit
• Terminal Type: Screw terminals
• Best Use: Centralizing power distribution for multi-device setups

Battery Box – Yak-Power Power Pack Battery Box

A battery box houses your power source safely, keeping it dry and preventing battery terminals from making accidental contact with metal gear inside the hull. The Yak-Power Power Pack Battery Box features a built-in master power switch and an external run-home light indicator. It is pre-wired with quick-disconnect plugs, making it incredibly simple to remove the entire battery for recharging at home.

Double-check the internal dimensions of this box to ensure your specific lithium or AGM battery fits snugly inside without rattling around during transit. This box is excellent for recreational anglers who want a plug-and-play power solution with external controls. It is not ideal for heavy, oversized trolling motor batteries that require specialized high-amperage boxes.

• Connection: Pre-wired Yak-Power plug-and-play connectors
• Features: Integrated on/off switch and battery status light
• Material: Heavy-duty molded plastic
• Best Use: Housing 12V 7Ah to 20Ah lithium or AGM batteries

Extension Arm – RAM Mounts Double Socket Arm

An extension arm extends the reach of your ball-mounted accessories, lifting screens closer to eye level or positioning cameras out of the splash zone. The RAM Mounts Double Socket Arm is crafted from marine-grade aluminum and uses a single adjustment knob to tighten both ends securely. Its robust construction ensures that once locked, your device will not budge even when paddling through heavy wind and chop.

Longer arms apply more leverage to the base mount, so ensure the mounting surface is reinforced with a backing plate to prevent the kayak’s plastic deck from flexing. This arm is ideal for tall paddlers who need to bring their fish finder screen closer to reduce glare and eye strain. It is not recommended for ultra-lightweight setups where minimal height is preferred to reduce wind resistance.

• Length: Standard 3.69 inches (socket-to-socket)
• Ball Size Compatibility: 1.5-inch (C-Size)
• Material: Powder-coated marine-grade aluminum
• Best Use: Elevating displays and adjusting viewing angles

Adapter Plate – YakAttack Fish Finder Mount

An adapter plate connects the base of your specific fish finder display to a standard gear track or ball mount system, saving you from having to modify the factory bracket. The YakAttack Fish Finder Mount features a pre-drilled pattern that matches the factory mounting brackets of major brands like Garmin, Lowrance, and Humminbird. It connects directly to YakAttack’s LockNLoad track mount system, which prevents the base from loosening while in use.

Verify that your fish finder model’s bracket hole spacing aligns with the pre-drilled holes on this specific plate to avoid having to drill custom holes into the adapter. This plate is designed for kayakers who want a clean, secure, and easily removable connection between their sonar unit and a gear track. It is not needed if you are using a basic flush-mount system that screws directly to the console deck.

• Mounting System: LockNLoad track mount compatible
• Hole Pattern: Universal pre-drilled pattern
• Material: Composite polymer
• Best Use: Quick-release mounting for major brand fish finders

Backing Hardware – YakAttack Rigging Bullet Kit

Backing hardware makes it possible to install nuts and washers behind the kayak hull in hard-to-reach areas where your arm cannot physically fit. Without proper backing hardware, screws can easily pull out of thin kayak plastic under stress. The YakAttack Rigging Bullet Kit utilizes threaded brass bullets that screw onto the ends of your bolts, allowing you to guide them through the mounting holes using a pull-wire. This ingenious design turns a frustrating two-person job into a quick, solo rigging task.

Make sure the thread size of the rigging bullets matches the hardware you are using (typically 10-32 threads on most kayak accessory mounts). This kit is perfect for DIY riggers working on narrow-hull kayaks or sealed consoles without direct hatch access. It is not necessary if you can easily reach inside the hull to hold nuts in place by hand.

• Thread Size: 10-32 threads
• Includes: Threaded bullets and pull-wire
• Material: Solid brass
• Best Use: Blind-mounting tracks and brackets inside closed hulls

How to Waterproof and Seal Your Kayak Drill Holes

Any time you drill into a kayak hull, you must seal the penetration to maintain buoyancy and protect internal compartments from pooling water. A marine-grade sealant like Lexel or marine silicone is essential for this task because it remains flexible, allowing the plastic hull to expand and contract in shifting temperatures without cracking. Apply a generous bead of sealant directly into the pre-drilled hole and around the threads of the fastener before screwing it home.

Using well-nuts (rubber expansion nuts) is another excellent method for securing mounts while simultaneously waterproofing the hole. When the bolt is tightened, the rubber collar of the well-nut compresses against the inside of the hull, creating a tight, waterproof gasket. Always wipe away any excess sealant that squeezes out during installation to ensure a clean finish and to prevent dirt or sand from sticking to the console.

Managing Wires and Cables for On-Water Safety

Loose wires inside a kayak cockpit are more than just an eyesore; they represent a significant safety hazard. A stray loop of cable can easily catch on a rod butt, a paddle shaft, or your foot during an emergency wet entry. Keep all wiring runs as short and direct as possible, securing excess cable with heavy-duty zip ties or split loom tubing tucked away inside the hull.

Use adhesive-backed cable tie mounts on the interior walls of the kayak to route wires high up, away from the bottom of the bilge where water tends to pool. Keeping connections elevated reduces corrosion and ensures that your electronics continue to function even if you take on a small amount of water. For external wire runs across the deck, consider low-profile wire covers that protect the insulation from UV degradation and abrasion from stray paddles.

Rigging your kayak console with the proper mounting tools takes the stress out of on-water navigation and fish-finding. By selecting durable, marine-grade hardware and securing your wiring, you protect your valuable electronics from the harsh elements. Take the time to plan your layout carefully, and enjoy a clean, safe, and highly functional setup on your next paddling adventure.